| June 2003 - |
The
Hartford Courant - Costume dramas
For this summer's movies, the clothes make the film 
"The buzz about Renee Zellweger's costumes was so strong that
Bloomingdale's opened a 'Down With Love' boutique in
Manhattan.The summer movie thrills aren't just about dodging clone agents, dealing with mutant dirty work or revving up fast and furious cars. There are legitimate gasp-inducing surprises in store for those who appreciate pillbox hats, Chanel suits and killer high heels. Summer box office is set to go ca-ching over great fashion bling, starting with "Down With Love" and hitting a much-anticipated high note with the "Legally Blonde" sequel. Rarely has there been a movie season packed with this much trend-inspired - and probably trend-inspiring - style. Besides red-carpet royals Renee Zellweger and Reese Witherspoon strutting their fashion stuff, a number of other movies are poised to provide wardrobe inspiration in upcoming films: "The Italian Job," with Mark Wahlberg and Charlize Theron wearing an Armani-designed wardrobe ; "From Justin To Kelly," with Kelly Clarkson; "Charlie's Angels: Full Throttle," with Drew Barrymore, Cameron Diaz and Lucy Liu; "Gigli," with Jennifer Lopez; and "Le Divorce," with Kate Hudson and Naomi Watts. There's even a dark comedy afoot about the fashion industry, "Garmento." Already pink suits, pillbox hats and prim white gloves are featured in both "Down With Love" and "Legally Blonde 2: Red, White and Blonde." Expect kung fu fighting in hot pants and Jimmy Choos in "Charlie's Angels," and red crocodile Kelly bags from Hermes in "Le Divorce." While these films' fashion influence remains to be seen, what's clear is that enormous costuming considerations went into the movies. The timing couldn't have been better for "Down With Love." The movie, set in Manhattan in 1962, comes at a time when today's fashion lens is clearly focused on looks from Kennedy-era "Jackie dressing" to the Mary Quant/Andre Courreges/Rudi Gernreich Mod styles of the mid-'60s. Runway shows from designers Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Jacobs and Carolina Herrera all showed '60s inspirations for the fall 2003 collections. "I am eagerly awaiting the response to 'Down With Love.' It is perfectly pitched to resonate with the fashion crowd," said David Wolfe, fashion trend analyst for the Doneger Group. "Its time frame is Doris Day/Rock Hudson of the very early '60s, which makes it pre-Mod, and therefore I think it will look more 'fresh' than the current runway expressions of mid-'60s. 'Down With Love' hovers exactly between the uptight formality of the '50s and the fashion liberation of the '60s, and so I think that makes it just right." The fashion buzz was so heavy on "Down With Love" that Bloomingdale's opened a "Down With Love" boutique at its flagship Manhattan store, featuring hats, gloves, coats and shifts similar to those in the movie. The makeup company Stila joined with the movie's distributor, 20th Century Fox, to create "Down With Love" makeup that will be sold in a '60s-style hat box. Above and beyond the fashions, "Down With Love" might increase awareness of some of the best work by mid-century architects and interior designers. Scenes of the U.N. building will remind viewers of a specific post-war style of architecture that, in turn, evokes images of Le Corbusier, Eames and Mies van der Rohe furniture. And "Down With Love" is loaded with that. "Down With Love" costume designer Daniel Orlandi said he finds the fashion fuss over the movie both flattering and amusing. "How will it affect fashion? Who knows? I can't imagine that girls are going to start wearing pumps, hats and gloves," he said. "But wouldn't it be fabulous to go to a cocktail party and see these clothes?" Orlandi and his team made every stitch of clothing from scratch for the film - no trips to the vintage shops for them. "I didn't want it to look thrift-shoppy. For me, this film is a great tribute to the movie designer. These are movie clothes." In the movie, a send-up of the classic Day-Hudson sex farces, Zellweger had 39 costume changes, each with its own hat, shoe and handbag. She's not alone this summer in terms of visits to the changing room. Joseph Aulisi, costume designer for "Charlie's Angels," had to come up with 50 costume changes each for Barrymore, Diaz and Liu for their "Angels" redux. In the "Legally Blonde" sequel, Witherspoon has more than 40 costume changes, courtesy of costumer Sophie Carbonnel, according to W magazine. That fashion is an important consideration in these summer movies is not accidental. "Right now, they're marketing fashion first in the movies," said Tom Julian, trend analyst for Fallon Worldwide. "Whether it catches on really does depend. For culture to embrace it, it has to have the sensibility of living in the culture in a certain way." In other words, are we in a place right now where pillbox hats will fit in? Hey, if we could wear "Xanadu"-inspired legwarmers or "Flashdance"-provoked torn sweatshirts, anything's possible" - GREG MORAGO |
